One day I has got a call from Surgut with asking about the possibility of remaking of the man suit from KITON. The suit was from the last summer collection brand and unique. He was made of excellent fabric factory Loro Piana of mixed yarn in the super 220 wool and silk. In the suit, had shortcomings, the results of factory sweing, the quality of his performance on me is not very good impression, in spite of a big name.
I had to solve got two problems: sitting of the sholders girdle and shortening of throusers in the seat. All photographies are clikable.
I found one problev yet in the jacket — excess tissue in the front near armhole. If you will see on the left side of the jacket, you can see wrinkled fabrics, but theirs not to be there are. In the left side more then right side. And theirs a will put out in sewing process.
Given the complexity of the technology, the task was not easy. Alter ready-made products is not easy. Man suit sewing technology complex, in the deformation of the tissue, and therefore cut. So you never know what surprise you might expect.
In this case, the correction of the shoulder girdle. It was necessary to move the arm at 1 cm, reducing shoulder. The next phase — reducing the length back, due to the movement of the germ back. What does this mean? This means reshaping the upper back! If the tailor is not familiar with the basics of cutting, the result can be anything.
Also, as a consequence of mismatch patterns man figure was unbalanced on the back of his jacket. This time, I also took into account.With trousers is not so simple. The pants KITON quite complex processing inside of the belt, which combines machine and hand sweing.
In addition to his pocket for coins, in the weld zone is the inner loop buttons. It also had to be moved. At the same time, almost every joint decorated decorative air loop.
The most critical part is over. Now make a jacket to try on. The result: new cut armholes, collar sewing lines moving, moving waist level.
The finished result. Impeccable fit jacket in the shoulder and neck. Remove the excess tissue in the armholes.
Waistband is in the place where it should be in shape. Managed to keep the valance, only deepened his corner landing at the base of the belt. Since the factory pants go on sale any length, and the bottom of trousers too was drawn to length.
Was also ported (redone) pocket for coins.
Balance landing on the back was perfect. Profile middle seam back was fit body structure.
It is all!